Illusionist: Body Shapes

Achieve acceptable fashion by understanding body shape. Body shape is divided into vertical lengths and horizontal widths. The perspective on vertical lengths applies to both men and women. Horizontal widths are gender orientated. Men try to achieve a trapezoid or carrot shape. Women attempt to achieve an hourglass shape.

Vertical proportion is a comparison between hip height and total height. A person has a long body when hip height is less than half of total height. A person has a balanced body when hip height is approximately as total height. A person has long legs when hip height is more than half of total height. Hip height is measure from where the hipbone protrudes on either side of the stomach to bottom of the feet.

Long body types want to make the torso look smaller and the legs look longer. Do this by wearing high heels or platforms in the same color of leggings or bootleg pants. For example: black shoes with black pants. Create a line around the waist or higher, never lower than the waist. For example tuck a shirt into high waist pants or wear shirts with thick waistband around the bottom of the ribs. Wear prints and details near the face. Do not wear prints and details on skirts or pants. Never wear long shirts.

Balanced body types have equal length between torso and legs, yet aspire to lengthen torso while maintaining balance. Avoid a waist line. If needed place the line between the waist and top of hips. Do not wear big belts. Low rise pants and flared bottoms look great. In an example of high heel and platform shoes wear longer pants leg that flares at the bottom.

Long legs want to create a longer torso to regain balance. Do this by drawing attention down and avoid waist bands. Wear longer shirts with the line below the hips. Prints, lines, patterns and details are wonderful on pants and skirts; however, use details sparingly on shirts and accessories around the neck and face. Do not wear an emphasized empire waist or large belts.

The gender challenge in horizontal widths revolves around men wanting a carrot, while women want an hourglass figure. Carrot figures are widest at the chest and shoulders and tapper down to the hips. Hourglass is signified by equal widths around chest and hips with a smaller waist. In other words men want to look buff with a strong upper body, while women want to be curvy. This alters the course of action.

Carrot accentuate with flowing fabrics. Men emphasize their shape with low v-necks and wear clothing of equal shade in similar colors. Achieve balance by wearing a slightly darker shirt with lighter pants. Women equalize their hip line to their chest line. Wear darker shirts with lighter pants. For example a man with a long body could wear matching forest green shirt and pants with a dark khaki v-neck sweater. The waist band rests around the lower ribcage. A woman would prefer a black or navy button up mid-drift over a white body suit or light pink spandex pants with a high waist band.

Hourglass figures minimize bulk. Men wear lighter color shirts with darker pants to deemphasize hips. Women repeat patterns above and below a slightly darker waist line. For example a man with a balanced body should wear a fitted light blue shirt with darker denim jeans. A woman should wear a gray body suit or match black top and pants with a checker board pattern slightly above the hip line.

Pear figures have small chests and waists compared to hips. The objective is to maximize the chest whether they are men or women. Wear bright colors and patterns near the face and around the neckline. Wear pants and shirts of a similar contrast, but lighter colors on top. For example a long bodied man would tuck his dark gray shirt into black pants. Bring emphasis to shoulders with rhinestones around the shoulder and collar. Women wear a bright, pattern scarf around shoulders when wearing a fitted suit.

Pencil figures have even widths across the chest, waist and hip. Both men and women benefit from wearing equal shades of similar colors above and below the waist. Avoid clingy or tight clothing and never be afraid of vertical stripes. Men make the chest look larger with horizontal stripes around the chest or stripes along the shoulders. Women bring attention to hips so they would also include horizontal stripes around the waist, hips or thighs depending on their type or make the waist look smaller with diagonals. For example a man with long legs wears matching tan pants and shirt. The shirt is long with horizontal stripes around the chest. A woman wears a fitted dress of a solid color with a darker belt or scarf draped around hips.

Apple figures are large around the waist line. The objective is to diminish the waist line. This is difficult for apple figures with long bodies. Adding any attention to the waist makes the person look larger. Therefore, men wear lighter bulky jackets that create a "v" shape with the lapels along the waist. Create a line below the pecks. Women wear an empire waist. A man drapes a light grey blazer over a dark gray outfit. A woman wears a magenta baby doll dress with an empire waste over black straight leg pants.

These are the basics of creating the illusion of proportion. Often people are accused of dressing oddly, because their clothes are awkward, bunchy or unappealing, not because they wear outdated styles. Hopefully these tips will preserve individual style. Get creative and find designers catering to your body shape.

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